




Joel Pérez Chávez with the completed mamona, open-fire veal roast.
Photo by Dan Payn, Smithsonian Institution
Joel Pérez Chávez prepares the veal for the open-fire roast.
Photo by Hugh Dorwin, Smithsonian Institution
Photo by Jeanette Gaida
Photo by Jeanette Gaida
Joel Pérez specializes in preparing the mamona, the traditional style of roasting meat in the plains. He began working with cattle at the age of thirteen, but after suffering an injury, he dedicated himself to learning how to select, cut, roast, and serve the meat for the mamona.