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← STORIED OBJECTS / Kenyan Bao Game
A mancala-like game board of hand-carved wood with four rows of eight shallow cavities each and two oblong cavities on either end. Some hold game pieces made of round, marble-size seeds.

Photo by Zvonimir Bebek, Ralph Rinzler Folklife Archives

Image Description A three-foot-long, 2.5-inch-thick mancala-type game board of hand-carved wood with four rows of eight shallow cavities (two square, the other thirty round). Two longer, oblong cavities anchor the board on either end. Game pieces of round, marble-size seeds (nicker nuts) are dispersed throughout the board, though none are in the oblong bins that would hold game pieces during play. The central cavities are outlined with incised lines and the spaces between them are decorated with carved designs.

Kenyan Bao Game

A contemporary East African board game with centuries-old history, bao—also known as mancala—involves complicated tactics for capturing an opponent’s seeds. Master boat builder Ali Abdalla Ali carved a bao board for the Festival leading up to the Kenya program in 2014. When not working on the Lamu dhow, he invited visitors to play with him in the shady shipyard.

Centuries-old sailing and carving traditions are entwined at the Festival

The Kenya: Mambo Poa program was arranged to reflect the pastoral, urban, and coastal environments within the country. Visitors to the coastal area were drawn to the weathered dhow from Lamu Old Town on the coast of Eastern Kenya and could watch as it was transformed into a sea-worthy vessel under the direction of Ali “Skanda” Ali.

Hailing originally from Yemen, his family’s work with wood dates back at least 700 years—and Ali Skanda is actively carrying it forward with his own practice and by training youth at his woodshop. Preserving traditional woodworking skills provides a lens to view history and the present moment—even as powerboats and commercial products replace the handmade. The intricately carved bao boards remain part of daily life in Old Lamu and also find their way onto dhows, where they may be used as crews wait for winds to rise and push them across the channel.

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  • The “Lamu” dhow rests on the sand in Lamu Old Town, 2014.
  • A closely observed bao game unfolds in the public square, 2014.

A glimpse into the Wamunyu Wood Carvers Cooperative highlights the range of decorative objects and furniture still made by contemporary Swahili woodworkers. Ali Skanda made the bao board to use at the Festival, anticipating playing with visitors as he took breaks from restoring the Lamu dhow.

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  • Ali Skanda carves the bao board at his Lamu workshop in preparation for the Folklife Festival.

Much like checkers or chess games played in city parks across the Americas and Europe, bao games are set up for two players and often attract passing observers. The ancient game is math-based and strategic, requiring concentration; it’s also an engaging way to pass the time.

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  • At the Festival, Ali Skanda could be found playing with visitors in the shipyard tent.
  • At the Festival, Ali Skanda could be found playing with visitors in the shipyard tent.
  • Children also learned to play—and to make their own gaming boards—in the education tent.

On the Festival’s last weekend, the restored dhow’s sails were rigged and hoisted. It would soon be bound for the Mariners’ Museum and Park in Newport News, Virginia, where it is now part of the Small Craft Collection. The bao board and playing pieces are displayed in the Center’s conference room.

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—Erin Younger, exhibition curator

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